Monday, January 15, 2007



Sunday, December 17: In preparation for our drive through Zimbabwe, we filled not only the bakkie's fuel tank with diesel, but two 25-liter jerrycans to take along. Since approximately 1990, largely because the administration of Zimbabwe's president, Robert Mugabe, instituted a controversial policy of land redistribution, the country has experienced a skyrocketing rate of inflation. The ensuing years have brought increasing fuel, food and currency shortages. It appeared, judging from recent news reports, that we might not be able to purchase fuel everywhere we planned to visit, so we bought more whenever we could, regardless of the state of the vehicle's fuel indicator.

After topping up the tank in Pandamatenga we completed the border crossing procedures and started the drive to Hwange National Park. We arrived at Robins Camp, one of the park entrances, slightly later than the time officially recommended for driving through, but the gatekeeper allowed us to come in anyway, as we planned to drive to Main Camp and spend the night in whatever accommodation was available.

Hwange contained a spectacular array of wildlife. We stopped at two areas containing specially built viewing platforms; one about halfway between Robins Camp and Main Camp, and one a few kilometers away from Main Camp. We saw elephants, lions, zebras, hippos, two rhinos, sable and roan antelope, a large water monitor, bat-eared foxes, sidestripe jackals, and a huge variety of birds. The accommodation consisted of a clean, pleasant chalet complete with kitchen and front porch. As with all hotels in Zimbabwe, payment is accepted in U.S. dollars only; this cost $29.00, with a $21.00 fee to drive through the park.

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