We departed Hwange Main Camp at 9:05 on December 18, after an early morning drive to see more wildlife and a few minutes for Jeff to replace a damaged radiator hose.

The 1 p.m. arrival at Bulawayo was followed by a brief but intense rainstorm; the hostess at the restaurant where we had lunch said that it was the first significant rain they had seen in some time.

Bulawayo is Zimbabwe's second largest city, after the capital city, Harare. Jeff visited it several times in the early '90s, and said it has not changed very much, with little new construction or expansion because of economic woes. We drove and walked around the central business district and noticed very long lines containing hundreds of people outside banks and some grocery stores. When we asked the reason, we were told that most people, no matter where they are employed, are paid through their banks, not directly by their employers. This meant that, in this week before Christmas, if they did not go to the bank early and wait in line, they would have no access to cash in a largely cash economy. (We noticed the next day that the lines began as early as dawn.) Shortages of inexpensive staple foods, such as cooking oil, flour and bread also are frequent, accounting for the lines outside groceries and bakeries.

Despite these difficulties, we found the people of Bulawayo exceptionally friendly, courteous and pleasant. Everyone we met was eager to talk about their personal situations and the issues facing the country as a whole. This is amazing in a country in the second decade of an economic and social crisis.